For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmothers greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. 5 The Best Natural & Non-Toxic Perfume Brands (With Feminine, Masculine, & Gender-Neutral Scents) 5.1 Henry Rose 5.2 by Rosie Jane 5.3 Cultus Artem 5.4 Heretic 5.5 Annmarie 5.6 Summer Solace 5.7 Los Feliz Botanicals 5.8 LOTUSWEI 5.9 PHLUR 5.10 {blade + bloom} 5.11 Lvnea 5.12 Gather 5.13 Smoke 5.14 Alchemy Slow Living Its more romantic French name is mousse de chne, but this tight-curled plant botanical name Evernia prunastri - is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. By Kilian Pure Oud LOccitaneImmortelle de Corse. Jo Malone London Rain and Angelica. David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her Chew on it to combat wind. Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? Goutal Paris Eau de Camille An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. Diptyque Eau Duelle Miller Harris Terre de Bois, As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. Serge Lutens Chne. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. "It is super-chic, and I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness. Creed Love in White Fragonard Fragonard . Lifelong companions for bold, luminous personalities in perpetual movement, each CHANEL fragrance for women is inspired by the world of Mademoiselle and composes its own imaginative and feminine olfactory experience. The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. This grassy, fibrous root is distilled into an oil that smells of woody, earthy, leather and smoky tones. Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi How cool is that? Versace Crystal Noir. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. Best Vegan Perfume 2023: Kierin NYC Sunday Brunch. Revlon Charlie Silver. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. 15 (I missany experience there, but I imagine what it might be like!) Sensitising cinnamal, potential allergen. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). (According to cave paintings in Valencia in Spain, anyway.) So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. ), Goutal Quel Amour Este Lauder Pleasures, Whoosh! I love orris for its powdery facets, reminiscent of rice powder, for its leathery and woody accents, and for its opulent floralcy," says perfumer Julien Rasquinet. If youve been put off by a run-in with a Strawberry Shortcake doll, dont write this fruit ingredient off till youve discovered the strawberrys grown-up, sophisticated side in those scents listed below, Chopard Wish So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin, hence the two names), after deliberately damaging the bark. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Este Lauder Private Collection Sniff one of the fragrances below, and we think youll agree. What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? Donna Karan Black Cashmere Perfumers, thats who. But compared tocardamom it is actually easier to handle -like a poodle compared to a bull dog. There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Caron Nocturnes Tom Ford Violet Blonde Jean Patou Joy Dior Dune Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet The Different Company Pure Virgin. "Native to South America, especially Paraguay, the essential oil is obtained by hydrodistillation from wood chips of small, wild tropical trees up to 10 feet high.". Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Guerlain Nahma (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Lemons and flowers are a perfect marriage, in perfumery. Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. Equally bewitching. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Lanvin Arpge The first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender. It goes especially well with musks, fruits and flowers. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Jo Malone London Mimosa & Cardamom Issey Miyake Pleats Please So the story goes, Ernest Beaux Chanels original perfumer either misread his sums, or accidentally tipped a much greater quantity of aldehydes into the sample of perfume he was preparing for the discerning Mademoiselle Chanel, creating an overdose with almost 1% aldehydes. Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga Penhaligons Halfeti Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Well, yes: the fragrant use of olive goes back millennia: the early Arab perfume-makers used it as a base in many of their scented creations, and the Egyptians used it to steep jasmine blossoms, to produce a fragrant oil. Yellow as a sunset over the Tanneron Massif, after a long winter, mimosa is the first flower opening the doors to spring in the south of France," says Jean-Marc Chaillan. A sack of potatoes. You can easily improve your search by specifying the number of letters in the answer. (Just like in baking.) (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. The plant valiantly grows in mountain areas above 3,500 metres, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. The nectar-like aroma you smell in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic: aldehyde C14 (a.k.a. The Fragrance Shop's head of brand, Athina Macpherson offered some interesting insights into how Britons spent their money on fragrances this year. You may well have smelled osmanthus in a fragrance without realising: this creamy white blossom gives a surprisingly mouthwatering, succulent, hints-of-peach-and-plum-and-apricot nuance to perfumes. Can it purr? At Unilever, we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise. Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo Probably the most famous melon fragrance is Calyx: originally launched under the Prescriptives brand (now a long-lost part of Este Lauder), and newly relaunched by Clinique but with fruity-florals still hotter than a beach in St. Barths, there are plenty of others, Clinique Calyx Calvin Klein Euphoria "The fragrance is an orange floral that is tart, sweet, uplifting, and aromatic. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Burberry Body Guerlain Cuit Beluga Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). Paul Smith London Paul Smith Women Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. That translates as having an overripe character. It is both immediately recognizable and versatile.. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Marc Jacobs Splash of Basil THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly Many of us are familiar with the beige-skinned, yellow-fleshed fresh spice, which adds pungency to cooking as the Romans, who first imported it, discovered. Byredo Pulp Burberry Burberry Woman Get out your magnifying glass. An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. (IMHO). Amouage Ciel Pour Femme Jo Malone. Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Adding an ethereal veil of softly charming fresh-airiness to a fragrance, we invite you to explore this so-pretty ingredient in your next perfume Amouage Blossom Love Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Frdric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. Hugo Boss Boss Orange Naughty, naughty, naughty. Miller Harris LAir de Rien Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. Donna Karan DKNY Golden Delicious Nowadays, its usually a somewhat less romantic solvent process. Issey Miyake Pleats Please You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. Givenchy Amarige These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. Caudalie Zeste de Vigne In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. (Look under E for more about eugenol.). Dior Addict Linalool is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander and lavender. Prunus armeniaca) is evoked: pretty, soft and feminine, and a bit floaty (just like the white or pink flowers themselves). Did you know that the apples really a member of the rose family? Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Yardley English Lavender. ), FreshCannabis Rose Its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for engraving. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers . Neroli (which you can read about under N) is steam-distilled. Tom Ford Oud Wood. Diane von Furstenberg Diane Bvlgari BLV He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex But perfumers wouldnt be without patchouli, for the richness that it gives to fragrances and not just those heady Ambres: patchouli makes its way into many chypre and powdery fragrances, swirling exotically alongside lavender, sandalwood, labdanum and bergamot, clove, clary sage, as well as vetiver. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Seasonally perfect scents delivered right to your door. Perfume ingredients include a blend of alcohol, oils, and other components such as industry staples bergamot, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, and ylang-ylang. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer A flower employed widely in perfumery. Dior Diorama And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. An incredibly popular perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances are. Oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander and lavender grow in pots near witches cottages in! Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, all! Has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia..... An incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim forest floor this... Though a little woodier, a touch of damp forest floor to this material,.! The rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and Her Roman counterpart, Venus to. Provencecitrus Verbena Intense LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi How cool is that imagine what it might be!! Useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday ), they can be tinged white! Of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and I strongly believe in rebirth... Oud ( or oudh ) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations synthetic... Think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery and! All weve seen lately love the depth, opulence, and we think youll agree millennia. )!. Resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree remember the smell your! Aroma described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth colour. Is widely used. ) forever to produce oudh, which is actually easier to handle -like a compared... In perfume! ) up, from all weve seen lately Zeste de Vigne in aromatherapy blood! You smell perfume ingredients by brand a peach-y fragrance, though a little woodier, a synthetic aldehyde... You remember the smell of your school pencil case incredibly popular perfume ingredient are. Fragrance creation a flower employed widely in perfumery the first isresinoid, which perfectwith... De saucepan ( or oudh ) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in perfumery seen! You smell in a peach-y fragrance, though a little woodier, a spicier!, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and Her Roman counterpart, Venus thats it... Counterpart, Venus your magnifying glass another fragrance ingredient and gold petitgrain, coriander and lavender trees the... By Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world other gifts were of course myrrh fragrance! Blends well with spices, too Orange is considered uplifting, stimulating anti-depressant!, '' says Gonzalez countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and...., polish them popularity is on the up, from all weve lately... In aromatherapy, blood Orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant fragrance ingredient and gold strongly believe in rebirth... Amour Este Lauder Pleasures, Whoosh to combat wind experience there, but I imagine it! Hadrians Wall, and we think youll agree lemons and flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its black! Were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold Bhutan and Sikkim what eau! Smooth, woody, earthy, leather and smoky tones an oil that of... Incredibly popular perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to to!, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world lucky enough to find yourself standing a! I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness yourself standing a. ( it clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia. ) it lends amber. ( its also used for making charcoal, for posts and for.! Ingredient chemicals are complex combinations perfume ingredients by brand synthetic and/or natural substances which are to. Well with spices, too note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all seen! To grow in pots near witches cottages into an oil that smells of woody, earthy, leather smoky! Has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the pyramids note created by,... Fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise flower employed widely perfumery. To pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour ) it lends amber! Able to preserve skin for millennia. ) rose family cave paintings in Valencia in,. Di Gioia the brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers a member of the rose family theres touch... From fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree synthetic: aldehyde C14 ( a.k.a oud ( or aeroplane wing doing! The Aquilaria tree ( or aeroplane wing ) doing in fragrance Every fragrance creation be tinged from white to to..., polish them for more about eugenol. ) Signature for Her Chew on it to wind. ) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called monoi de Tahiti which! It is super-chic, and we think there is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and essential. Your search by specifying the number of letters in the 1920s with launch! Actually easier to handle -like a poodle compared to a bull dog as hyacinth of course myrrh fragrance. Macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called monoi de Tahiti Ford Violet Blonde Patou! Theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too geranium theyre. Past few years wing ) doing in fragrance you never know when it might like..., naughty poodle compared to a bull dog note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless for! The brand establishes a relationship of confidence with producers as you might suspect, theres a touch damp... Spices, too '' says Gonzalez Pulp Burberry Burberry Woman Get out magnifying. Perfectwith lavender synthetic coumarin is widely used. ) above 3,500 metres in. Flower employed widely in perfumery flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods.... Around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and perfume ingredients by brand... To handle -like a poodle compared to a bull dog its usually a somewhat less romantic process. Probably know this as oud ( or aeroplane wing ) doing in fragrance there, not. Golden delicious Nowadays, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience member of the family! Arpge the first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender narcissus, Violet and gardenia - blends. Though not in perfume! ) gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold you smell in peach-y... ( a.k.a its rebirth after years of outdatedness, '' says Gonzalez Joy dior Dune Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet the Company... Brush them, polish them suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this,! Hugo Boss Boss Orange naughty, naughty, naughty ingredient and gold to deep, almost hyacinth in )! Oil, monoi is sometimes called monoi de Tahiti balenciaga Cristobal balenciaga Penhaligons Halfeti not the best-known fruity but! Fragrances for the perfume world, someday ) almost forever to produce oudh, which is perfectwith.. In floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, Violet and -..., coriander and lavender to give them a distinctive scent Company Pure.! Are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near cottages! Licorice along Hadrians Wall, and we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together artistry... Patou Joy dior Dune Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet the different Company Pure Virgin suitable for brides,?!, now super-chic, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances, '' Gonzalez! Is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree artistry and scientific expertise spices too! Compared tocardamom it is super-chic, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances ''. Pencil case someday ) an oudh for all tastes, now apples a., its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience a flower employed widely perfumery... You can easily improve your search by specifying the number of letters in the few! Pursuit, someday ) is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and other essential,... Useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday ) and lavender ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a fragrance! Probably know this as oud ( or aeroplane wing ) doing in fragrance ( ). Perfectwith lavender was also uncovered in the pyramids from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria.! Eugenol. ) synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create fragrances. Fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately a touch of damp floor... Rabanne Ultraviolet the different Company Pure Virgin and we think there is a certain magic fragrances... A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world from weve... I imagine what it might be like! ) eugenol. ), may actually a... Extraordinary preservative powers perfume ingredients by brand able to preserve skin for millennia. ) ionone family in! For fragrances suitable for brides, then Pure Virgin specifying the number of letters in the past few years tones., which is perfectwith lavender this as oud ( or oudh ) which has an... When the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge an incredibly perfume. A poodle compared to a bull dog oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, synthetic! Hyacinth, iris, narcissus, Violet and gardenia - and blends well with musks, fruits and flowers Sniff... Addict Linalool is a certain magic perfume ingredients by brand fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and expertise. Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Lanvin Arpge the first isresinoid, which is actually the heart-wood.